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15.12.2021Video Tutorial and Guide: How to Make a “Nastya Rose” Flower of Fabric
Step-By-Step Master Class on the Creation of Fabric Flowers
For convenience, I decided to split this video master class on five basic steps in the creation of fabric flower. At any time you can view the exact stage of the work, which you are currently engaged in. Well, before you start watching this master class on flower making, I recommend you to download the pattern and manual, which you can further print on the printer. You can download the manual on making flowers of fabric here -
Once you have downloaded the pattern, print it on the printer on a standard A4 sheet.
Step 1. Cutting out the leaves and petals of the pattern
You shall decompose the cut paper patterns according to their numbers, where each number specifies a part of the flower and it is indicated the quantity of blanks of each number, according to the manual. Once you have cut out all the paper leaves, you shall start to transfer their drawn contours on the fabric. To speed up the work, I recommend you to transfer the image on two fabrics at once, one of which is an adhesive backer. Further, you can more easily glue these two pieces to a floristic wire. You shall fasten these two pieces of the impregnated Japanese fabric by the stapler, and this will not allow them to disperse. Then you shall transfer the contours of petals on the fabric with a pencil. Create the number of contours corresponding to the quantity specified for each number (in this case, for "Nastya Rose" - one contour). Try to place the contours as close to each other as possible, it will allow to save fabric.
Once you have transferred all the contours on the fabric and before you start cutting out, you shall fasten all the leaves and petals at their base by the stapler. Then proceed to the fabric cutting-out.
Step 2. Coloration
Before coloration, be sure to soak all the flower blanks with water by a broad brush, it will allow the paint to gently disperse and make the tones softer and the transitions smoother, as well as will let the paint to soak the fabric well. In my practice, I use the powdered dry Japanese paints. These are highly concentrated paints, designed specifically for flower-making. Moreover, they can last for very long time. For example, to fully color this flower of the master class, I needed just 0.16 grams of all the paints put together, i.e. 1 gram is enough for 6-7 such flowers as "Nastya Rose". To dilute the paint, please use the ordinary water at room temperature of about 25-30 degrees Celsius. There is no difference in the sequence of the addition of water into the paint or vice versa, please only try to add ingredients little by little – for a start, you just need about a match head of the paint. With the addition of water, please watch for changes in color and the desired shade. For precise dosing and regulation of the shade, I use a pipette and palette.
The palette is needed for precise color control, as it is white and correctly conveys the color. For the coloration of petals and leaves, I use different-sized brushes – it depends on the size of the petals and the desired result. For myself, I choose brushes made of natural materials, as well as the deer-hair brushes made in Japan.
Try not to color monochromatically, but to make the transition from a darker color to a lighter color, like it is a fresh flower: from the center to the edges of the petal. Actually, it is a matter of practice: the more flowers you make, the more elegant and beautiful they will be in each of your new works.
Once you have colored all the flower’s details, such as petals, leaves and floristic wire, please let the entire kit dry thoroughly. Typically, the rate of drying depends on the temperature, an average from five (5) hours, but I usually wait until the next day to tackle with renewed vigor for the assembly of the finished flower.
Step 3. Hot-pressing
The most interesting stage in the work: with hot nozzles of different shapes, we make the desired relief (bulges, curves, veins, etc.) on the blanks. Attention: before you start working with hot tools, make sure that you have selected the correct temperature mode. Since the temperature controller of the soldering iron allows you to adjust temperature between 110 and 450 degrees Celsius, this in turn affects the type of fabric to which the temperature range is used. For example, silk and impregnated rayon require a low temperature in the range of 150-250 degrees, but more dense fabrics such as cotton or corduroy require a higher temperature. You should also remember that the relief on the petals and leaves is made not so much by pressure as by temperature.
To work with the leaves, we choose a truncated Japanese hook. This is quite versatile and commonly used nozzle in flower-making. For the petals, we use hemispheres of different diameters. We select the diameter based on the size of the petal. Pay attention to the way of holding a soldering iron by your hand: in this way (shown on the video) it will be easier for you to work with it, and the hand will not get tired. Be careful with a hot tool and observe the safety rules.
Step 4. Assembling
Well, here’s the final part. For the assembly, we use all the blanks in which the glue has already dried out. For gluing the petals and adhesive fabric with floristic wire, I use special floristic PVA glue made in Japan, liquid by consistency. This glue is very good, and after drying it does not leave any stains or marks on the fabric. Carefully begin the assembly as shown in the video master class. To assemble the stalk and all the endings of wires on the petals together, you should use thick PVA glue. Wait until the glue sets, and proceed to winding of the stalk with a ribbon. You can use different ribbons for winding the stalks. There are three main types of ribbons: prepared silk ribbons, adhesive stretch ribbons which do not require the additional use of glue and paper papyrus ribbons. Choose to your taste. White silk ribbons can be colored in any color.
That’s all! "Nastya Rose" flower of Somebana system is ready!
If something is unclear or requires further explanation, please ask your questions below, I'm happy to answer them.
Used materials and quantity
Part of flower | Used fabrics | Wire | Nozzles |
Petals | Face – Velvet (medium) 23х25cm Back – Usukinu (hard) 23х25cm | #35 – 3 pcs. | Ball 25mm Smooth spoon 6mm |
Leaves | Face – Satin 12000 (hard) 23х25cm Back- Usukinu (hard) 23х25cm | #26 – 2 pcs. | Japan hook |
Calyx | Satin 12000 (hard) |
| Japan hook |
Stem | Stretch tape (green) | #20 – 1 pcs |
6 Comments
Hi
I’ve bought both kits and i don’t understand about the placing of wire in leaves and petals. Does the wire need to go right to the tip of a leaf and how far up a petal does the wire go?
Also you sell 2 types of glue soft and hard. Could you explain in which situation you use the soft glue and hard glue?
Thank you.
Fiona
Hi!
Thank you for your questions.
For leaves I make to the top but for petals to the half because you will need free space for shaping petals.
Thin glue is used mainly for gluing leaves and petals and sticking tapes. Thick glue is used for gluing the big gauge wire and flower assembling into stem.
Hope it will help you.
Regards
Natalie
My nephew bought the tools for me. And i liked it . so this is my first attempt. Hope I did well.
Great!
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